| Oil-Soluble Vitamin C Derivative VC-IP |
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| INCI Name : Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate | ||
| Vitamin C has many functions as a cosmetic ingredient, including skin lightening, promoting collagen synthesis and inhibiting lipid peroxidation. VC-IP (ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate) is stable at high temperatures and has good solubility in oils. VC-IP exhibits excellent percutaneous absorption and effectively converts into free vitamin C in the skin to perform various physiological functions. VC-IP is approved as a quasi-drug active in Japan (at 3%). It is also registered in Korea as a functional ingredient for skin lightening at 2% concentration. | ||
Properties of VC-IP |
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| Superior percutaneous absorption Inhibits activity of intracellular tyrosinase and melanogenesis (whitening) Reduces UV-induced cell / DNA damage (UV protection / anti-stress) Prevents lipid peroxidation and skin aging (anti-oxidant) Good solubility in common cosmetic oils SOD-like activity (anti-oxidant) Collagen synthesis and collagen protection (anti-age) Heat- and oxidation-stable |
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Physical properties of VC-IP |
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| Appearance Specific gravity (d2020) Refractive Index (n25D ) |
:Colorless to pale yellow liquid : 0.930 - 0.943 : 1.459 - 1.465 |
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| Skin Lightening / Anti-Pigmentation | |
| Inhibition of Melanogenesis | |
| Various concentrations of VC-IP were added to cultured human melanoma cells (HM-3-KO). After 4 days of cultivation, the amount of melanin produced was measured by observation of the color tone of each cell pellet. As shown below, VC-IP effectively inhibited melanogenesis in human melanoma cells. Results were dose-dependent. | |
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| Inhibition of Intracellular Tyrosinase Activity | |
| VC-IP was added into mouse melanoma cells (B16-4A5) at various concentrations. After a 72-hour cultivation, the cells were dissolved and extracted. L-Dopa was then added to the extract. After 60 minutes at 37℃, the amount of dopachrome formed by the activity of tyrosinase was evaluated by measuring its absorbance at 540 nm. Figure below shows that at a concentration of 0.02% and above VC-IP inhibited the activity of intracellular tyrosinase. | |
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